I never thought I would end up going to Dallas, but I’m glad I did. After visiting Austin in 2016, we both really liked the vibe and wanted to see more of Texas. On this trip, we went to Dallas and Houston (covered in a separate blog). Dallas, aka “Silicon Prairie” due to its booming tech industry, is in the green part of northern Texas far from the desert ranges.
The best time to go is between September and November, when the temperatures aren’t overwhelmingly hot, the tourist traffic has died down and the Texas State Fair is in full swing. We went in the first week of July and although it was hot, it was bearable.
With an estimated population of 1.3 million, it is the ninth most-populous city in the USA and third in Texas after Houston and San Antonio. The combined Dallas – Fort Worth area is home to approximately 7.5 million people. The city has a population from a myriad of ethnic and religious backgrounds and one of the largest LGBT communities in the U.S.
One thing you will notice right away is that many people are riding Uber, Lyft and Bird rented scooters all over the downtown area. When the journey is over they just leave them on the spot, so there are scooters lying around everywhere!
Neighborhoods
Central Dallas is anchored by Downtown along with Oak Lawn and Uptown, areas characterized by dense retail, restaurants, and nightlife. Downtown Dallas has a variety of districts, including the West End Historic District, the Arts District, the Main Street District, Farmers Market District, the Business District, the Convention Center District, and the Reunion District. In the mid 1970’s residents poured out of downtown into the suburbs, leaving it desolate during non-business hours, but today it is a hub of activity at all hours. It has made a great come back!
East Dallas is home to Deep Ellum, a trendy arts, music and nightlife area close to Downtown, the homey Lakewood neighborhood, historic Vickery Place and Bryan Place, and the architecturally significant neighborhoods of Swiss Avenue and Munger Place. Its historic district has one of the largest collections of Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired prairie-style homes in the United States. In the northeast quadrant of the city is Lake Highlands, one of Dallas’s most unified middle-class neighborhoods.
South Dallas, a distinct neighborhood southeast of Downtown, lays claim to the Cedars, an eclectic artist hotbed, and Fair Park, home of the annual State Fair of Texas, held from late September through mid-October. Southwest of Downtown lies Oak Cliff, a hilly area that has undergone gentrification in recent years, in neighborhoods such as the Bishop Arts District. Today, most of the area’s northern residents are Hispanic and Latin American.
Things to do
The Sixth Floor Museum/Texas School Book Depository, located downtown in the West End Historic District, is a fascinating visit. This was at the top of our list. It documents President John F. Kennedy’s assassination and legacy, housing many facts about the tragic day as well as covering the President’s early life and presidential policies. You can stand at the corner window where the fateful shots were fired. Get tickets in advance because it is very busy.
Dallas Museum of Art is home to over 23,000 works of art spanning 5,000 years of humanity from all cultures, this museum is home to a permanent collection of masterpieces which include Picasso, Rodin, Monet, Gauguin and many more, as well as constantly changing galleries which showcase the many areas of World Art from Greek and Roman to African, American, Asian and Western European. There is even an area in which the rooms of a southern French villa once owned by Coco Chanel have been recreated. And it’s free!
Dallas Arts District is one of the biggest urban arts areas in America: a twenty block expanse crammed with museums, theatres, parks and fine restaurants.
The Nasher Sculpture Center is a calming space nestled within Dallas’s Arts District and is home to one of the finest collections of modern and contemporary art in the world.
Perot Museum of Nature and Science is home to five floors of 11 permanent exhibit halls that contain state-of-the-art video and 3D computer animation with awesome, life-like simulations, educational games and interactive kiosks.
Old Red Museum The red sandstone courthouse was built in 1890 and is now a museum exhibiting fascinating artifacts, from the prehistoric to current day.
Dallas Zoo is a world-class, 106-acre Dallas Zoo, the largest in Texas, and features many rare and endangered species. Don’t miss the award-winning Giants of the Savanna, the only habitat in the U.S. where elephants mingle alongside giraffes, zebra and other African species.
Bishop Arts District is one of the most unique neighborhoods in Dallas. Home to more than sixty restaurants, colorful street art, galleries, bars, coffee shops and artisan boutiques, you can easily spend all day and evening in this area.
Texas State Fair is the largest state fair in the country and visitors from all over flock to it to experience Texas. It runs from late September through October.
Reunion Tower You can see the city for miles on a clear day.
Ride a bike around White Rock Lake park. White Rock Lake is a 1,015 acre city lake located approximately 5 miles northeast of downtown Dallas.
North Park Shopping Center is the second largest mall in Texas. Shop to your heart’s content!
Dallas Arboretum is one of the world’s most beautiful gardens. It has seasonal festivals, concerts and exhibits. Check their calendar for events.
Wild Bill’s Western Store situated in Dallas’ historic West End, the iconic store has leathered up everyone from Bon Jovi to Mick Jagger. We bought a few t-shirts here.
The Majestic Theatre is a performing arts theater in Downtown Dallas. It is the last remnant of Theater Row, the city’s historic entertainment center on Elm Street, and is a contributing property in the Harwood Street Historic District.
Music
The lively Deep Ellum entertainment district is known for its vibrant street murals, bars with live music, quirky art galleries and long-time concert venues for Indie and Blues. There are so many bars and clubs here, it is best to just walk around and see what appeals to you. Because the weather is usually good in Texas, many bars have an outdoor patio. Here are a few places that we either visited, or were recommended to us:
Double Wide Bar is, according to their web site, “one of Dallas’ premiere watering holes serving up the coldest beer, stiffest drinks and best live music this side of the Trinity!” From rock to country and just about everything in between, chances are you’ll find it at the Double Wide.
Adair’s Saloon is a basic watering hole in Deep Ellum with live music. Bands play for tips.
The Curtain Club is a well known music venue set on two levels, with a patio, featuring both local & national bands.
Mama Tried is a Honky Tonk with a nice large dog friendly patio, a decent sized stage, live music and cold beer. Enjoy classic, Texas & Outlaw Country music and Bluegrass.
Sons of Herman Hall is a historic fraternal order ballroom that hosts swing dancing, music events & large private parties. It is also the oldest free standing wooden structure in Dallas. Check their calendar for events.
The Freeman Big Easy-style destination featuring down-home Cajun classics & local jazz bands playing nightly.
Louie Louie Dueling Piano Bar is a destination for a sing along interactive experience. Not my cup of tea, but it is popular and you just might like it.
Dots Hop House and Cocktail Courtyard with 99 beers on tap and a great outdoor space that includes a large swing, this is a nice place to go with a group of people.
The Goat is a lively Blues bar (with karaoke on some nights) located a bit further out from downtown in Lakewood Hills.
Reveler’s Hall in Bishop Arts District is a new venue with live music ala New Orleans.
Where to Eat
Trinity Groves Whatever your favorite type of food is, you can probably find it at Trinity Groves. Mexican, Asian, Italian, Barbecue, Vegan, Seafood, Mediterranean, Tapas? It’s all there in the downtown business district’s restaurant hub.
Beto and Son is a chef-inspired Mexican restaurant in Trinity Groves. Beto is a pioneer in Mexican restaurants, opening Cozumel in 1993. His son Julian (2017 Zagat under 30 winner) brings a fresh vibe to old-school family cooking. Ingredients are sourced locally like the bread, which is made at a local Panaderia only blocks away. Every sauce is made from scratch and new produce and meats are brought in daily to ensure every dish has the highest quality freshness possible.
The award-winning Liquid Nitrogen Margarita is a must try. Seriously, it is not just a gimmick, the nitrogen freezes the ingredients so when it melts it does so without adding water. It makes for a truly amazing drink. Plus they use their own high quality tequila (Beto & Son Avion Reposado Tequila). This was the best Margarita I have ever tried (and I’m not a Tequila fan).
Lucia in Bishop Arts District is a small, chef-owned Italian restaurant with David Uygur at the helm. The menu changes frequently and features hand-crafted salumi and fresh pasta made in house daily. Garnering good reviews, it remains one of the most coveted reservations in town. You have to reserve well in advance, but they do save four bar stools facing the kitchen for walk-ins. People line up for the walk-in spots about an hour before the restaurant opens at 5:30 pm. We managed to snatch up two of the seats and were eager to try this great Italian restaurant, however, we found it did not live up to the hype. It was good, no doubt about it, but it was not great. Perhaps they just had an off-night.
Emporium Pies – Fine Pies for Fine Folk – in the Bishop Arts District is a highly rated pie shop. There was a long line when we were there so we did not get to try it, but we could see people loved the baked goods. The pies are handmade using quality ingredients, no artificial anything, with offerings that change with the seasons.
Pecan Lodge is listed as one of the best barbecues in the city. Be prepared for long lines.
Flora Street Café in the Downtown Arts District is a high end restaurant run by Chef Stephen Pyles. “Sophisticated dishes combining Texas ingredients and modern techniques join an impressive wine list and handcrafted cocktails which pay homage to the culinary arts and fine arts.” We had snacks in the cocktail lounge and found the service and food to be excellent. It is pricey, but it is in the standard range for fine dining.
Perry’s Steakhouse also in the Arts District, is one of the top Steak Houses in Dallas. We ate in the lounge and had a reasonably priced burger and great IPA. They have happy hour specials. Good food and good service.
Bread Winners is an American eatery that provides home-made baked goods & casual bites, breakfast through dinner.
Deep Ellum Brewing Company is a quirky craft brewery hosting public tours & laid-back events, with food trucks outside.
Flying Horse Coffee shop is downtown next to The Joule hotel. We had breakfast here daily. Good coffee, sandwiches and baked goods. And it has unique local art on its walls.
Gemma, a relaxed outfit decked in white & blue with a coastal California feel serving New American bites.
Boulevardier in Bishop Arts District offers upscale French Bistro fare including specialty Oysters, Steaks, Chicken, and Fish off of their Wood Fired Grill. We had a baked oyster dish that was delicious!
City Hall Bistro is a sophisticated but comfortable eatery in the Adolphus Hotel open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Here is one that we think you should not bother trying: The Woolworth. If you want quality ingredients and professional service, this is NOT the place to go. We didn’t even bother to finish the meal.
Where to Stay
Probably the best location to stay in is downtown, especially if you want to spend time visiting bars and music venues. It is very close to Deep Ellum (about a $6 Uber fare) which is the main district for nightlife.
We stayed at the Cambria. It is a good reasonably priced hotel right next door to The Majestic Theatre and across from Enterprise Car rental. It is also very close to Deep Ellum and walking distance to the Arts District, the Historic West End and the main parts of downtown. There is no swimming pool, but the staff are very friendly and always checking to see if everything is ok.
The Joule Hotel is one of Dallas’ finest places to stay. It costs more, but it is luxurious and sure to please your senses. It is gorgeous! Plus it has an infinity pool on the roof that hangs over the edge a bit. Next time, this is where I want to sleep, eat and hang out!
The Adolphus Hotel opened in 1912 and was the first grand hotel in Dallas. It was also the tallest building in Texas, until the Magnolia Hotel surpassed it. The structure is a Dallas Landmark listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Adolphus has been named one of the top ten hotels in America by Condé Nast Traveler. I love the old world style.
The Magnolia Hotel is one of the city’s most revered structures. Built in 1922, this 400-foot high, 29-story structure was the first high-rise in the United States to have air conditioning and the city’s first skyscraper. The hotel is nice too. It is one of the top downtown hotels.
Hotel Za Za is in the Arts District and also, fairly close to Deep Ellum. This is a charming boutique hotel near the streetcar line and Wholefoods, and it is pet friendly. I think this is a toss up with The Joule for places to stay next time in Dallas.
There is a lot to see in Dallas. We found that three days was not enough, but it will give you a taste of the city. Please visit our blog on Houston if you plan to head that way (it is about 3.5 hours south of Dallas).
Side Trips
Southfork Ranch
No trip to Dallas would be complete without a visit to Southfork Ranch, the setting of the famous TV show “Dallas”, and the world’s most famous Ranch. Join a guided tour to explore the house and nearby museum, taking in everything from J.R.’s bedroom to the gun that shot him—as well as plenty of costumes, clips and props from one of the longest-running shows in TV history. It is about 30 minutes outside of Dallas in Parker Texas.
Paris Texas
Another place that was on my bucket list was Paris Texas. Luckily it was only two hours west of Dallas. It was the film Paris Texas, that triggered this desire. A film by German director Wim Wenders with Harry Dean Stanton and the most amazing soundtrack by Ry Cooder (we constantly listen to the sound track when travelling through the southern US). It turns out that none of the scenes were filmed in Paris, but the drive there was still worth it to see the Eiffel tower.
Another reason I wanted to visit was because Jimmy always wanted to go to Paris. So I drove him to the Eiffel tower in Texas and said “here we are, Paris!”. He was not amused.
We had burgers at Jaxx Grill, which were tasty, and then walked around the town square exploring some of the antique shops that surround it. We didn’t stay long in Paris, but I’m glad we went.
The Paris Texas Eiffel tower is located just outside of town and next to it is the Red River Valley Veteran’s Memorial. The flags were waving proudly on this Independence Day week.
Hopefully we provided some suggestions that you can utilize in Dallas and surrounding area. Enjoy your trip to Texas!
