We travelled across the Southern USA to experience authentic Blues, southern hospitality, great food and amazing scenery. It was a truly awesome trip!
Below are some photos and music clips from this great experience. For restaurant and hotel recommendations please go to the separate blogs for each city.
To skip to cities below click on the links:
New Orleans, Louisiana
Congo Square in New Orleans – part of Louis Armstrong Park – can be considered the spot where Jazz and Blues originated. The gathering of West African slaves in Congo Square originated in the 1740’s during the French colonial period and continued during the Spanish era. The enslaved people congregated on Sundays at the square to sing, dance and drum in the authentic West African style. These African cultural expressions gradually developed into Mardi Gras and eventually New Orleans-style Jazz and Rhythm & Blues.
The park, on the edge of the French Quarter, is dedicated to Jazz and Blues. Louis Armstrong (1901 – 1971) was one of the most influential figures in Jazz. If you like Jazz and good music, you know who he is.
In New Orleans Blues, and Jazz can be found everywhere. In the air, on the streets and in the clubs. The musicians are all first rate. You have to be good to play here, even on the corner.
We have never seen a city like this. The atmosphere is unique. People walk around with drinks in their hand, enjoying the music and the hot, hot, humid weather. Everyone is friendly. We are not interested in going during Mardi Gras, but at any other time there is also plenty to do and see. November to May is peak season, so expect escalated costs.
Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse is a well-established jazz venue. Irvin Mayfield, a Grammy and Billboard Award-winning artist with 25 albums to his credit, is acknowledged for bringing Jazz back to the French Quarter.
You can find Blues at The House of Blues and other venues in the French Quarter, but, for less mainstream Blues go to Frenchman Street, just outside of the French Quarter. Preservation Hall (live music since 1961) is probably the best known venue for great Jazz in the world. They do not serve alcohol, but you can bring your own. Go early because they have line ups and limited seating. With the heat and humidity, it can get strenuous standing for the length of a show.
A video from Apple Barrel Bar on Frenchmen Street. Unfortunately, I don’t have the name of the band, but they were great. Good job at covering Creedance Clearwater. We both really enjoyed them. There are many bars on Frenchman Street, and people are constantly moving from bar to bar as there are no covers. It is a very lively area, but stick to the main streets. Apparently, it can be dangerous off the main track.
Austin, Texas
Austin, state capital of Texas, and live music capital of the world, is another bastion of great music. Austin has more than 250 live music venues. Major music events include the South by Southwest Music, Film and Interactive conferences in March and the Austin City Limits Music Festival in October. Sixth Street is a busy hub for music venues, but South Congress is nicer and has better food.
The Continental Club on South Congress was a great experience. It is recognized as “the premiere live club in Austin since 1955”.
We saw Cash’d Out, an excellent Johnny Cash tribute band.
Austin is Music City. You can feel it at the airport as soon as you pick up your luggage. Where else are you going to see giant guitars on the carousel?
It is a mandatory stop on any Blues or Southern US music tour. Good music, nice people, and excellent food! Very hot in the summer and still hot in September, but we will definitely go back. We both thought this is a city we could live in.
Mississippi
The Delta Blues, dominated by guitar and harmonica, is one of the earliest styles of Blues music. It originated in the Mississippi Delta, a region stretching from Memphis, Tennessee, in the North to Vicksburg, Mississippi, in the South, and from Helena, Arkansas, in the West to the Yazoo River in the East.
Bentonia
Blue Front Cafe, opened in 1948 by Mr. and Mrs. Holmes in Bentonia Mississippi, it is now owned by their son, Jimmy Duck Holmes. The Blues Front Cafe is on the Delta Mississippi Blues trail. Go in, pick up a guitar, and jam with Jimmy and the gang. It is about 40 minutes north of Jackson along Route 49. There is a great documentary on the old Blues players called “I am the Blues”. http://iamthebluesmovie.com
Clarksdale
Two hours north of Bentonia on Route 49, Clarksdale, Mississippi, is an important spot on the Delta Blues trail and home to the Juke Joint festival each spring. The Delta Blues Museum is located here, which, unfortunately, we did not have time to visit. You might want to give it a shot – let us know what you think.
During the early 20th century, Clarksdale was nicknamed the, “Golden Buckle in the Cotton Belt.” It was a prosperous town, but much of that prosperity is gone. However, the resilient residents are keeping the music alive and making it an important destination on any Southern US trip. Tourism is its future.
Ground Zero Blues Club, owned by actor Morgan Freeman and the mayor of Clarksdale, Bill Luckett, is a popular venue in Clarksdale. Mr. Freeman plays guitar here occasionally.
Red’s Blues Club, owned by Red Paden, is one of the more authentic Mississippi Delta juke joints. It is, literally, on the other side of the tracks, where you find the real deal. The guitar player above is Lucious Spiller, from Arkansas, one of the best guitarists both Jimmy and I have ever seen. He isn’t just playing the guitar, he IS the guitar – kind of like when good actors become the part instead of just playing a role.
A video clip of Lucious, sorry for the poor autofocus – but the music is clear!
Ike Turner was born in Clarksdale and began his career here. John Lee Hooker, Sam Cooke and Tennessee Williams all lived here at one time. We stayed at the Clark House, an excellent B&B a few blocks away from the clubs, but there is also this wild place to stay just outside of town called Shackup Inn – you can rent your own shack! And Ground Zero has hotel rooms above the bar.
The Crossroads are in Clarksdale at Highways 61 (the Blues Highway) and 49. This is where Robert Johnson reportedly sold his soul to the devil to be able to play the Blues…
Memphis, Tennessee
Memphis is a short drive from Clarksdale (about 1.5 hours). It is famous for the influential strains of Blues, soul and Rock n Roll that originated there. Memphis is the birthplace of several American music genres, including Memphis Soul, Memphis Blues, Rock “sharecropper” Country music (in contrast to the “rhinestone” Country sound of Nashville), more recently, Memphis Rap, Buck and Crunk.
Sun Studio
The legendary Sun Studio was opened by Rock n Roll pioneer Sam Phillips in Memphis, Tennessee, on January 3, 1950. Reputedly the first Rock single, Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats’ “Rocket 88” was recorded there in 1951, with the song’s composer, Ike Turner, on keyboards, leading the studio to claim status as the birthplace of Rock n Roll.
Blues, R&B, Country, and Rockabilly artists such as Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, Howlin’ Wolf, BB King, Rufus Thomas, and Jerry Lee Lewis, recorded there until the studio outgrew its Union Avenue location. Sam is in the photo below.
In 1953, 18-year-old Elvis Presley came to the studio to pay for a short recording. Nothing came of it, but Sam Phillips thought he had potential. In July 1954, Sam invited a few musicians to play with Elvis in the hope that they’d come up with the sound he was looking for. Apparently, it wasn’t going anywhere until they were ready to go home, at which point Elvis picked up his guitar and started jumping around and singing a Blues song called “That’s All Right”. THIS was the sound that Sam was looking for. He wanted a white guy that sounded like a black singer and he found it. Elvis recorded this song with “Blue Moon of Kentucky” on the B-side and history was made.
The mic in the photo is the original mic used by Elvis. Apparently, people like to lick it when they visit.
I had to check out the mic. And Jimmy bought Elvis glasses. The tour of Sun Studio is excellent. It’s about 40 minutes and you do need to go at a set time. We bought tickets and waited in the gift shop, which has beverages, cool t-shirts, plus other souvenirs. During the tour, they give you all the history in an interesting anecdotal format with the King’s old recordings playing in the background. Jimmy had goosebumps and was very moved.
We also drove through a neighbourhood where Elvis lived when the Presleys first moved to Memphis. A public housing development built in 1938 under President Franklin Roosevelt’s WPA, Lauderdale Courts was one of the first U.S. public housing projects. Apparently, the Courts were a pivotal place for Elvis. It was here that he practiced his guitar in the basement laundry room and played with other musicians who lived in the Courts.
Graceland
No trip to Memphis is complete without a visit to Graceland, the home of Elvis Presley. Built in 1939, the original owner of the land named the property after his daughter, Grace. Elvis purchased Graceland in 1957 for $102,500 as a farmland retreat outside of town. It is now owned by his daughter, Lisa Marie Presley. Graceland is the second most-visited house in America with over 650,000 visitors a year. Number one is the White House.
The lines are long to get over to the mansion. You start at the Graceland Tourist Center, where you buy a ticket and a place in line for the shuttle bus that takes you over to the house. I never thought I would be interested in visiting, but I’m glad I did. It gives you a glimpse not only into Elvis’ world, but into the era. Some of the rooms in the house have pretty cool 1970’s designs. And you can go on his airplane and jet!
Gibson Guitar Factory and Show Room
We also visited the Gibson Guitar Factory and showroom, however didn’t have time for the tour (they only have a few tours daily and the next one was too late). Jimmy and I both have Gibsons so it would have been nice to see how they are made (I have one made at this factory!). We will have to go back.
Beale Street
Famous, and historic, Beale Street in Memphis is home of the Blues, and where BB King got his start. Tons of bars with great music. I read that it is one of the best bar hop streets in America. I also heard that it can be dangerous, but there was a strong police presence and a lot of people on the street. This is one of the US cities where you can drink on the street, and carry your drinks from bar to bar if they are in a plastic cup.
The JP Soars band at the Rum Boogie bar. JP plays a cigar box guitar that he custom made with Humbucker pick ups. The band was fantastic! We watched them for most of the evening. They do have covers at many of the bars ($5-10), but they will reduce it at certain times and you can try negotiating. It is standard to tip the bands as well. They all have buckets near the stage where you drop some cash. Don’t be cheap, give them a decent tip!
There was a lot to see in Memphis. We both loved it. They also have great fine dining. Check out the Memphis blog for restaurant and food recommendations.
Nashville, Tennesse
Nashville, another of several locales claiming the title of Music City, is the capital of Tennessee and the capital of Country music. The live music area, The District, is on Broadway Street and some of the top clubs are: Roberts Western World, The Stage, Honkey Tonk Central, Legends Corner, Tootsies Orchid Lounge, and Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar. The bars are free, just tip the band. Jimmy liked Nashville, and so did I, but I prefered Memphis. Both are touristy, but Memphis just had more unique charm, IMHO.
We only stayed one night and spent the evening on historic Broadway, primarily at Robert’s Western World – apparently the undisputed home of traditional Country music.
One of this Music City’s longest-running bands, and a Broadway St. legend, Don Kelley has led the Don Kelley Band since 1981. Kelley’s band helped turn Broadway around from its rundown days of peep shows and dilapidated clubs to a desirable tourist and local destination for music. They say that no trip to Nashville is complete without catching a set or two from this band. Their version of “Ghost Rider” is not to be missed!
The Ryman Auditorium, aka Grand Ole’ Opry, has a great display of costumes, guitars and memorabilia. They also have shows at the theatre. It is located downtown, but there is a new Grand Ole Opry that is in the suburbs, so don’t confuse the two.
The Ryman has a tour that starts with holograms telling you about the history of the theatre and the Grand Ole’ Opry. Very impressive! Jimmy had goosebumps again. And you can get your photo taken on stage!
The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is a must see, not just for Country fans, but all music lovers. We definitely have to go back to Nashville and stay longer.
Savannah, Georgia
Savannah is a beautiful coastal town on the Savannah River (South Carolina is on the other side). It is the oldest city in Georgia, established in 1733, and was a strategic port city during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars.
You can find street musicians along the Savannah river front. Savannah has annual music festivals and several live music venues in the historic district – Rock, Jazz, Blues, Country and more. Apparently, one of Savannah’s most respected live music venues is The Jinx at 127 W Congress Street. The Congress Street Social Club and the Warehouse Bar and Grill also have local and regional bands every week and draw steady crowds.
The Riverfront is a great place to hang out with a cold beverage (yes you can drink alcoholic beverages on the street here too) and listen to street musicians. And I found it interesting to watch the ships go by. The Savannah River is a shipping thruway since it’s right by the Atlantic, so you have some very large cargo ships going by.
This guy was just great. He was singing his heart out all afternoon. I didn’t write down his name, which is too bad. Very talented.
That’s it for our Blues journey in the Southern US. This is just a very cursory overview, but I hope the videos give you a taste of what it’s like. The musicians were among the best we have seen. There is a lot of talent down south. This was definitely one of our best trips! We had both wanted to see this part of the US for a long time and can honestly say it was even better than expected. It was our first time there, but definitely not the last.
For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.
