Warsaw (Warszawa), Poland’s capital, is one of the best places to visit in Central Europe. It has a fascinating history, many cultural attractions and excellent food. And you can stay at first rate hotels for a very reasonable price. For me, it also has family history. My father lived in Warsaw during the war and was involved in the Warsaw Resistance movement that fought the Nazi occupation of Poland. That era is long gone (as is the forced Communism Poles had to endure) but you can still feel the past in the streets of the old town.
Attractions
Warsaw Uprising Museum – learn about the 1944 Uprising in which Warsaw residents fought off the Nazis for an unprecedented period of time (just over two months). In comparison, France, with the largest army in the world at the time, capitulated in a few weeks.
Warsaw Old Town – Take a trip back in time with a stroll through Warsaw’s Old Town Square. It is the oldest part of Warsaw, built in the 13th century and significantly destroyed during WW2. It was rebuilt in its original architectural styles including Renaissance, Gothic, Baroque, and neoclassical. Today it is filled with cafes & restaurants, shops, musicians, and galleries.
Lazienki Park – the last residence of the last King of Poland, Stanislaw Augustus Poniatowski, nestled in beautiful gardens with Chopin recitals weekly and various art exhibits. They have daily tours of the palace so you can wander through the beautiful interior rooms. We really enjoyed it.
Warsaw’s Royal Castle is situated in the old town’s Castle Square. It was a residence of Polish royalty between the 16th and 18th centuries. The castle was completely destroyed by the Germans in World War II, and not reconstructed until the 1980’s because the Communist regime did not want to highlight Poland’s illustrious past.
As a side bar, Poland was the first country in Europe to produce a democratic constitution (2nd in the world after the United States with France being the third). Poland has a very rich, progressive history. The Polish Nobility comprised about 10% of the population, while other European countries only had about 1% Nobility. Many Polish Nobles were not very wealthy, but they were all educated and drove Polish culture forward. Music, painting, literature and science thrived in Poland throughout most of its history.
All Nobility, wether rich or poor, were considered equal and all had one vote in the parliament. Unfortunately this democratic stance is partially responsible for Poland’s downfall. It was not easy for the Nobles to agree with each other. That combined with an elected monarchy that had limited power, eventually led to the dismantling of Poland by the three surrounding powers – Russia, Prussia and Austria-Hungary.
Presidential Palace – The Presidential Palace is the latest version of a building that stood on the site since 1643. Over the years, it has been re-designed many times. It is open for tours.
Belvedere Palace – Near Lazienki Park, at 54 Belwederska street, is normally used by the President and the government for ceremonies. However, the President resides at the Presidential Palace in the city center. Belvedere also serves as a residence for Heads of State on official visits to Poland.
Copernicus Science Center – Contemporary science center with interactive exhibits, robotic theatre and a planetarium.
Chopin Museum – Rebuilt 17th-century mansion with musical scores, photographs & recordings of the composer’s work.
Warsaw Barbican – This large, 16th-century castle wall with towers was reconstructed in the mid-20th century. It is on the edge of the old town right in the center of the city.
Wilanow Palace – Restored 17th-century royal palace with a museum of fine arts, a baroque garden and landscaped park.
The Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) is a newly opened, interactive and museum that also serves as a cultural centre. The main exhibition depicts the thousand-year old history of Jewish people in Poland. The Polish Kings encouraged Jewish settlement, hoping it would boost economic development. In the 13th century they were granted religious autonomy and became direct subjects of the King. Poland was the most tolerant country in Europe. It became a shelter for persecuted and expelled European Jews and the home to the world’s largest Jewish community.
The three partitions of Poland between 1764-1795 led to the destruction of Poland as a sovereign state. Polish Jews became subject to the laws of the partitioning powers, the increasingly antisemitic Russian Empire, Austria-Hungary and the Kingdom of Prussia. Poland regained independence in 1918, but was soon occupied by Nazi Germany during from 1939 to 1945. The second world war resulted in the death of one-fifth of the Polish population, with 90% or about 3 million of Polish Jewry killed.
After the war, Poland was involuntarily placed “under the sphere of influence” of the Soviet Union and forced into communism. Most of the remaining Jews left in late 1968 as the result of a Soviet-sponsored “anti-Zionist” campaign. The fall of the Communist regime in 1989 saw a major change for the better and religious institutions were revived.
Where to Stay?
Our favorite places to stay are The Hotel Bristol and Hotel MaMaison. We both like old world style hotels instead of the glittering glass towers with modern furniture. You can’t get more classic than the Bristol Hotel. Opened in 1901, the Polish government held its first session there after Poland re-gained its independence in 1918. Many dignitaries stayed at The Bristol in the pre-war years, and since it is next to the Presidential Palace, it is still frequented by politicians (along with celebrities and travellers that enjoy quality).
The Bristol closed in 1981 and the building languished empty through the waning days of the Communist government. After the fall of Communism in 1989, the hotel was completely restored to its former glory. Today, it is a luxurious old world 5 star hotel with beautiful rooms, excellent restaurants and a swimming pool. Complimentary bottled water and free wi-fi! And they have Senior rates for those 62 and older.
The other hotel we stay at, Hotel MaMaison is in a quieter area on the other side of the old town square. It is a luxurious 5 star boutique hotel at reasonable prices. It has well designed comfortable rooms, a charming lobby and excellent service. I really enjoyed the pool; it is salt water and quite deep. And they have a special rate for those over 55 if you book on their site!
Where to Eat?
Both of the above hotels have excellent restaurants that I highlight recommend. They both offer delicious buffet breakfasts with a lot of variety, and dinner menus prepared by top chefs.
You can’t really go wrong with most dining choices in Warsaw. In the old town they have a few classic Polish restaurants with traditional hearty Polish food. The well known Restauracja Delicja is great for traditional Polish food and vibe.
For award winning fine dinning, try Nolita or Senses. For modern Polish Michelin rated try Elixir by Dom Wodki. And this cute French Bistro will not disappoint: Michel Moran. There are many more good restaurants in Warsaw, for casual dinning try one of the many small cafes. I’ve also had some of the best pasta in Warsaw over the years – some in casual little places in the downtown core, and an amazing smoked salmon pasta at the Bristol. Another restaurant worth mentioning is The Amber Room at the Sobanski Palace located on the historic Royal Route Ujazdowskie Avenue. It’s an elegant setting with antique chandeliers to enhance your fine meal. For Asian food, try Why Thai.
Enjoy!
