All roads lead there. Rome, the capital of Italy, is the 3rd most visited city in the EU, after London and Paris, and receives an average of 7-10 million tourists a year. Founded in 753 BC, it is a sprawling, cosmopolitan city with nearly 3,000 years of globally influential art, architecture and culture on display. Its historic centre is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Rome influenced Western civilization probably more than any other culture. It also has great shopping, museums, dining and is fun to just walk around and sit in one of the many piazzas.
This was part of our September 2015 one week trip to Italy that covered Venice and Padua, Florence and Rome. We started in Venice (two nights), then a day trip to Padua, Florence (two nights) and finally four nights in Rome. The train from Florence to Rome is only 1.5 hours.
Safety Tip: there are a lot of scammers, beggars and thieves at the bus and train stations and in many of the town squares. Keep your wallets in a safe place and don’t engage with anyone. They try to sell flowers and various souvenirs and are very aggressive. One man, at the Spanish Steps, put flowers into my hand and then demanded payment from Jimmy. He wouldn’t let me hand them back to him, so I had no choice but to drop them on the ground and then he started yelling and cursing. Not pleasant. If they sense you are an easy target they will follow you and are unrelenting. Be firm when you say No.
It’s almost impossible to see all of the worthwhile places to visit in Rome, but here are some of the best places we went to:
- Colosseum and Roman Forum
- Circus Maximus (Chariot racing track)
- Baths of Caracalla
- Piazza Venezia
- Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary
- Roman Pantheon
- Piazza Navona
- Campo dei Fiori
- Borghese Gallery at Villa Borghese
- Spanish Steps
- Via Condotti and Via Corso (shopping)
- Vatican and Sistine Chapel
- Trastevere neighbourhood
Click here for Where to Stay – Click here for Where to Eat
The best way to get around is to walk or take the public transport. Rome is very hectic and parking is not easy to find, so leave the car behind. One health-related thing to note is that there is a lot of smog in Rome. The many Vespas and motor bikes spew a lot of smoke and it does make breathing a bit difficult for some.
We walked to most places, but also bought a Roma Pass for areas that were not walking distance. A Roma Pass is not only a bus/subway pass, but it also includes one or two museums (depending on the duration of the pass). We bought a three day pass and it included the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Villa Borghese. Excellent deal. You can try the link above or google it.
Colosseum and Roman Forum
The Colosseum and the Roman Forum count as one museum on the Roma Pass. If you have the pass you don’t wait in line, you just go right up to the entrance. If you don’t have a pass, it will take a long time to get a ticket. This is one of the most popular attractions in the world! Take the subway to Colosseo station.
The Colosseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, is an oval amphitheatre in the centre of Rome. Built of concrete and sand, it is the largest amphitheatre ever built. The Colosseum is situated just east of the Roman Forum. Construction started by Vespasian in 72 AD and was completed in AD 80 under his successor and heir, Titus. Further modifications were made during the reign of Domitian (81–96). These three emperors are known as the Flavian dynasty.
It was used for gladiator fights and hunting simulations involving ferocious and exotic animals. The capacity is estimated around 70,000 people; the shows became occasions to impress and control the people through astonishing displays and special effects. The underground theatrical system had hoists and trapdoors to magically present the animals and gladiators through openings in the stadium floor.
This picture shows that people would bring cooking materials and have a picnic/barbecue while watching the games. Precursor of tailgate parties?
The Roman Forum (Foro Romano) is a rectangular forum/plaza surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the center of the city of Rome. For centuries, it was the hub of Roman public life: the site of processions and elections and the venue for public speeches, commerce, criminal trials, and gladiatorial matches. The heart of ancient Rome, it has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world.
Wandering through the Roman Forum and Colosseum, one can just imagine what it may have been like in the glory days of the powerful Roman Empire. From the Roman Forum you can either head south to Circus Maximus, or head north to Piazza Venezia and back to the main part of old town.
Circus Maximus and Baths of Caracalla
You can walk to Circus Maximus from the Roman Forum or take the subway from the Colosseum to the Via del Circo Massimo subway station. This is where the chariots raced! There isn’t too much to see now, but at least you know you were on the same spot.
The Baths of Caracalla were the city’s second largest Roman public baths, built between AD 212 and 217, during the reigns of emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla. The building was heated by a hypocaust, a system of burning coal and wood underneath the ground to heat water provided by a dedicated aqueduct. The baths were free and open to the public and were originally ornamented with high quality sculptures.
The Caracalla bath complex of buildings was more of a leisure centre than just a series of baths. The “baths” were the second to have a public library within the complex, which consisted of a central frigidarium (cold room), a double pool tepidarium (medium) and a caldarium (hot room) as well as two palaestras (gyms where wrestling and boxing were practiced). The north end of the bath building contained a natatio or swimming pool. The natatio was roofless with bronze mirrors mounted overhead to direct sunlight into the pool area.
Piazza Venezia and Torre Argentina
Head back north toward the centre of the old town by streetcar to Piazza Venezia. This is the central hub of Rome, in which several thoroughfares intersect. The piazza is at the foot of the Capitoline Hill and next to Trajan’s Forum. The main artery, the Viale di Fori Imperiali begins here and leads past the Roman Forum to the Colosseum. The large white monument in the square is known as Altare della Patria “Altar of the Fatherland”, also known as the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (the first king of a unified Italy).
Largo de Torre Argentina is a cat sanctuary. It is home to 150-200 feline friends, sheltered amongst the oldest temples in Rome (400-300 BC). Seven days a week volunteers feed, clean and look after them. Italy has a no-kill law for homeless cats, and Rome has many of them. See if you can spot some of the cats in the photo below.
In addition to the remains of four different temples, Torre Argentina also contains part of the famous portico of Pompey, upon whose steps dictator Julius Caesar was betrayed and killed in 44 BCE.
Pantheon and Piazza Navona
The Pantheon is a former Roman temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Augustus (27 BC – 14 AD). The present building was completed by the emperor Hadrian and probably dedicated about 126 AD.
It is one of the best-preserved of all Ancient Roman buildings. Today, it is a church and is visited by over 6 million people annually.
Piazza Navona is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 1st century AD, and follows the form of the open space of the stadium. The ancient Romans went there to watch the games; hence it was known as Circus Agonalis (competition arena). The name eventually changed to Navona.
It has two beautiful fountains, restaurants around the perimeter, and is a great place for people watching. The plaza is right on the path to other key areas in the center of Rome. Campo dei Fiori is another plaza close by worth visiting. It has a popular local produce market selling fruit, vegetables and general goods, and some great restaurants.
Of course, Fontana di Trevi is a must see, but it was under renovation when we were there. The 2015 restoration included the installation of more than 100 LED lights to improve the nighttime illumination of the fountain. Built in 1762, it replaced an earlier, less dramatic fountain. It is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world.
Villa Borghese
There are many museums in Rome, but due to time limitations, we only went to one: Villa Borghese, former home of the noble Borghese family. You must book in advance because they only let in a limited amount of people. And you need to check your bags, including large purses. (They go into a safe locker so it should not be a problem.) The Villa is set in the Borghese gardens which sit near the top of the Spanish Steps.
Admission is strictly capped at only 360 persons every two hours (mandatory exit at the end of time slot). We used the Roma pass to get in, but had to call to reserve a time slot a few days in advance. Phone: +39 06 0608
The Borghese family was a very powerful family and their former home is a reflection of that. “The original 17th century Villa was a converted family vineyard and farmhouse belonging to Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V. The interior was sparsely decorated, in order to enhance the beauty of his art collection, which included works by: Raphael, Perugino, Parmigianinno, Reni, Guercino and Domenichino. Amid such artistic grandeur, most extraordinary of all, are masterworks by Caravaggio and Bernini, which span their entire artistic careers. In 1700, Scipione’s descendant, Marc Antonio Borghese renovated the Villa in Neoclassic design, installing fine, stucco and painted, decorative features in every room. Of special note are the frescoes on the entrance’s vaulted ceiling, which celebrates the birth of Marc Antonio’s firstborn son. His addition converted the Galleria Borghese itself into a work of art, which houses priceless works of art.” (RomeGuide.it)
The home is elaborate, and the works of art leave you in awe of what some humans can achieve. Take in as much as you can because you only have two hours.
This statue and cushion are all made of marble and yet they look so realistic and soft, with creases and texture.
What a ceiling! Every detail is so immaculately crafted. And the colors are still so vivid!
Caravaggio painting of David with the head of Goliath. Jimmy loved this painting.
While we were there, a famous fashion designer had an exhibit, “Couture/Sculpture: Azzedine Alaïa in the History of Fashion”, that blended nicely with the works of art.
Spanish Steps
If you keep walking from Villa Borghese gardens you will end up at the top of the Spanish Steps. A popular spot, always very crowded. The steps lead down to Via Condotti which crosses with Via Corso, the high-end shopping districts.
Vatican City
Vatican City, a city-state surrounded by Rome, is the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church and home to the Pope. Its Vatican Museums house ancient Roman sculptures such as the famed “Laocoön and His Sons”, as well as Renaissance frescoes in the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel, famous for Michelangelo’s ceiling. We arrived around 8:30 in the morning and it was pretty quiet.
We purchased tickets to the Sistine Chapel online at the Vatican ticket site. I recommend purchasing your tickets there since they are without the mark-up that tour services charge. The Vatican museums are closed on Sundays. Your ticket will be for a specific time. Get it in advance because the lines are extremely long for same-day purchase.
Important: The Sistine Chapel is located in the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope. It is not at the front entrance of the Vatican, so take a look at the map before going. We made the mistake of waiting in the security line for the Vatican and then realized it was the wrong one. We then had to run to the Sistine Chapel entrance to not miss our time slot.
As the Pope’s own chapel, the Sistine Chapel is the site of the principal papal ceremonies and is used by the Sacred College of Cardinals for their election of a new Pope when there is a vacancy. Its interior walls and ceiling are decorated with frescoes by many Renaissance masters. The most important artworks in the chapel are the 16th century frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. They are considered among the greatest achievements of Western painting. Jimmy and I both had goosebumps looking at this spectacular art.
They do not permit photos to be taken in the Sistine Chapel, so I snatched these from the internet. Clearly some people were allowed!
This painting, in the Vatican Gallery Sobieski Room, is one of my favourites since it depicts the victory of the Polish King John III Sobieski over the Turks after the siege of Vienna in 1683. Painted in 1883 by the Polish painter Jan Mateiko.
There is a lot to see at the Vatican. It is easily a full day. Take your time.
Trastevere Neighbourhood
Trastevere is a region of Rome, on the west bank of the Tiber, south of Vatican City. It is kind of an artsy, hipster area, with winding cobblestone streets, less touristy than the main parts of Rome, but still quite busy. The area is filled with pizzerias, cafes and excellent mom and pop trattorie. It’s a short walk to the Tiber river and Ponte Sisto bridge from Campo de’ Fiori.
From the Ponte Sisto bridge take Via del Moro towards Piazza di Santa Maria, (aka Our Lady in Trastevere) the main square and heart of this district. The Basilica is one of the oldest in Rome. Via del Moro is a main street with many shops and cafes. From here just wander around the narrow streets and soak in the atmosphere.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Ponte Sisto (around $250 USD per night). Great location – a short walk to the Ponte Sisto bridge, gateway to Trastevere neighbourhood, and about a 10-minute walk to Campo de’ Fiori. Piazza Navona is about five minutes farther. The hotel is located on a narrow street that has a few stores, a gilato cafe and an amazing bakery cafe, Dolci Nonna Vincenza. They have a beautiful quiet courtyard where you can sit anytime. They serve a pretty good buffet breakfast in the courtyard, which is included in the room price, and they have a roof top lounge where you can see the Vatican in the distance. The room décor, however, was very standard and reminiscent of a chain hotel. It is not walking distance from the train station so take a taxi.
Hotel del Senato (starts at about $400 USD) is my choice for a hotel on the next visit. It is right next to the Pantheon and it would be amazing to wake up with that view. The hotel has great ratings and the rooms are more old world style which is nicer than the bland holiday inn look.
Hotel de Sole ($300 USD +) is another nice hotel, reasonably priced, near the Pantheon. If you want really high-end, Hotel Eden ($600 USD+) near Villa Borghese and the upscale part of Rome is a great choice. If you can afford $800 USD+ per night, the Rocco Forte Hotels are the best in my opinion. In Rome, it is Hotel de Russie. We stayed at a Rocco Forte hotel in Berlin (much lower cost) and it was perfection. They pay attention to the finest details. The room design is superior to most hotels I have stayed in.
Where to Eat?
Tanto Ce Tempo is a great little gastropub with good food, friendly staff and reasonable prices. We had after dinner drinks outside on this little table which was on a small narrow street. Great vibe. I left my umbrella there and the waiter ran after us all the way to the next square to return it. It is close to Campo de Fiori
Another restaurant just off Campo de Fiori is Ditirambo. The food is outstanding. They have a few tables outside and of course inside, but it is not very big. You must book in advance. They are very busy. Piazza della Cancelleria 74/75, Phone: 39 066871626
Fortunato al Pantheon is near the Pantheon and is frequented by politicians. The menu is classic Italian with fresh quality food. The tagliolini with white truffles and fresh fungi porcini is delicious! Via del Pantheon 55, Phone: +39 06 679 2788
Sciapo Restaurant in Trastevere neighbourhood. The food and service is amazing. Carlo was our host and server. Very knowledgeable and friendly. The ricotta was made same day and among the best we have ever tried. I had the carbonara because it’s one of my favorite sauces and it did not disapoint. Also had the breaded beef tips which are a specialty there. Wine was excellent as was the desert. We both loved it and the price is very reasonable. Via Dei Genovesi 1, Phone: +39 06 581 6185
For something more high-end, Il Convivio Troiani is considered one of the best restaurants in Rome. Many of the traditional Roman favourites are given a new twist. It’s expensive, but for a special treat it might be worth it. Closed Sundays and not open for lunch. It is not too far from Piazza Navona. Vicolo dei Soldati 31, Phone: +39 06 686 9432
Hotel Eden, near the Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese, has a roof top restaurant and lounge with great views of Rome. It is expensive, but if you go for lunch, it is not too bad. We went to the lounge, Il Giardino more casual, and shared a salad with a pasta dish each and a glass of wine which came to about 100 EU. We usually have the salad with the meal and not before, but the waiter kept trying to get us to eat it first (after I firmly said no bring it with the meal, he gave up). In the past when I visited Italy and had dinner with a family, I noticed that they ate the salad after the main meal (supposedly better for digestion). Pasta is usually considered a first course, and the main meal is fish or meat.
Note: When you order a house salad, they bring the oil and balsamic to the table and you have to mix it yourself. I find this odd. Unless you know what you are doing you can mess it up. A chef should add just the right amount of dressing and not have customers do it.
I saved the best for last. This little bakery, Dolci Nonna Vincenza, right by our hotel (Ponte Sisto), has the best cannoli ever! Truly, you would be hard pressed to find better. The chocolate in the cannoli is medium dark and so smooth and creamy, not sugary, that it is a like a fine chocolate cream that you find in the best restaurants. The pastry is crisp with no hint of cooking oil or bad aftertaste. The other flavors were equally good, but the chocolate really blew me away. They also have other pastries, coffee and ice cream.
I’m sure there’s more, but this is not a book on Rome, just a sample of an exciting place to visit. And it helps to know its history.
For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.
